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in the western world. We shall leave aside the criticism and indignation
caused by the incomprehensible (especially in Europe) development of certain
restaurant chains which offer preparations (hamburgers) in which neither the
bread and the filling nor the seasoning represent the smallest trace of any
taste familiar to a rational mind.
The subject of virtual cooking, food intended as a "stomach filler",
of the prize found in a bag of potato chips, will all be taken up and elaborated
further on.
In my opinion, even this type of food may attract, but is pleasure in the
mental sense, in the sense of the awesome, of transgression, however, when
we speak of real cooking, real food, I cannot imagine what could possibly
induce anyone to prefer a soggy, greasy and insipid chemical preparation to
a good, freshly made mortadella or salami sandwich.
I am so convinced of the superiority of the Italian panino over any other
type of fast food that I would hypothesize the panino's becoming the new Trojan
Horse for the forces of Italian gastronomy, which has already spread the fame
of Italian food throughout the world.
Once more, the Italian capacity to blend, to combine extraordinary raw materials
reaches vertiginous heights. The art of the panino has gradually become a
virtual philosophy of style, especially in northern Italy (in Venice, there
is the cicchetto which we will describe later on), an area where a rapid and
unexpected social-economic evolution has resulted in millions of individuals
having neither the time nor the desire to stop at midday for a complete meal.
Sandwich bars throughout the country have suddenly substituted sit down restaurants
and "meals at home with mamma at the stove". The answer was to turn
to the panino, reinventing a manner of nourishment which was not extraneous
to us and to our culture.
In the past twenty years, there has been an increase in people who resolve
their everyday problem of eating by leaning on a counter, consuming panini
(sandwiches), pizzas, rustici (savory puff pastries) and supplì (fried
rice balls), instead of what was once considered the main meal of the day.
There is no Italian who has not lunched on panini, an eating habit which in
any case takes us back to our collective childhood and the snacks of bread
with butter and sugar or bread with oil and salt, coffee with milk and a roll
to dunk in it. And I shall stop here before getting too sentimental.